Being a Gurgaon resident Jaipur is completely doable over the weekend. But Abhishek and I wanted to head to an offbeat destination. So on a hot, humid day, we set off to the little known Nawalgarh.
The town of Nawalgarh lies midway between Jhunjhunu and Sikar in the region of Shekhawati. Famous for its frescos and Havelis, the place has earned the sobriquet of the Golden City of Rajasthan.
The Road to Nawalgarh
Coming back to the journey, the gang Abhishek, Shera (our darling car), and I decided to brave the humidity to hit the road to our destination. To our surprise the moment we got into Shera, it started drizzling.
Little did we know that the drizzle would soon transform into torrential rains, giving us the second thoughts whether at all we should go ahead with the plan or ditch it thereon. And this couplet by me could aptly define our situation.
“Par Woh Musafir Hi Kya Jo Kuch Barish Ki Boondon Se Dar Jaye
Usne Toh Toofanon Ko Hi Apna Gharonda Banaya Hai”
( A traveler isn’t scared by a few droplets of rain. He has found his abode in the tornadoes)
So we went ahead with the plan. Google Maps took us through the narrow village lanes, vast meadows, and green pastures. The weather was pleasant and when we rolled down the window, the breeze stroked our hair, gently caressing our cheeks.
It took us nearly 6 hours to reach Mandawa, a town close to Nawalgarh. Mandawa, Churu, Sikar, and Jhunjhunu form part of the Shekhawati region. Shekhawati is often tagged as an open art gallery, thanks to the beautiful Havelis that are no less than artistic masterpieces.
Stay at Mandawa
Thanks to the rounds of zzzzz we had started off around noon from Gurgaon and by the time we reached Mandawa, it was past 6 in the evening. Mandawa is BTW also PK’s (the Bollywood movie character) village. We checked into Uday Vilas – A three-star grand property at Mandawa. FYI the town offers quite a few options to stay and you can choose as per your budget and liking.
The stay treated us like royalty. Since we were exhausted we decided to have our dinner and call it a day. The food was decent though they had very limited breakfast options. Alternatively, you can also choose to stay in one of the ancient Havelis in the town to experience a ride back in time.
Nawalgarh Sojourn
The Opulent History
It was only in the morning that we could start for Navalgarh which is almost a 35-minute drive from Mandawa. Nawalgarh is part of the Shekhawati region- the region that has earned the name of an open art gallery, courtesy the numerous Havelis. Havelis literally mean enclosed space in Persian. Forgotten in the barren landscape of Rajasthan today, these Havelis were once the symbol of prosperity.
These crumbling structures belong to the wealthy Indian trading communities – Marwari and Baniyas, who gradually migrated to the then-emerging cities to expand their trade. It is interesting to note many billionaires – Laxmi Mittal, Kumar Birla of Aditya Birla Group, pharmaceutical billionaire Ajay Piramal and Nepal’s only billionaire, Binod K Chaudhary, have their roots in the region of Shekhawati. In fact, according to Forbes, almost 25% of India’s 100 richest were from Shekhawati.
Nawalgarh is part of the Shekhawati region- the region that has earned the name of an open art gallery, courtesy the numerous Havelis. Havelis literally mean enclosed space in Persian. Forgotten in the barren landscape of Rajasthan today, these Havelis were once the symbol of prosperity. These crumbling structures belong to the wealthy Indian trading communities – Marwari and Baniya community, who gradually migrated to the then-emerging cities to expand their trade.
It is interesting to note many billionaires – Laxmi Mittal, Kumar Birla of Aditya Birla Group, pharmaceutical billionaire Ajay Piramal and Nepal’s only billionaire, Binod K Chaudhary, have their roots in the region of Shekhawati. In fact, according to Forbes, almost 25% of India’s 100 richest have their roots in Shekhawati.
Abandoned Masterpieces
Every inch of these Haveli are embellished with paintings that depict tales from Indian mythology, traditions, family history, and also the influence of western culture. These edifices today are in a dilapidated state. Being private properties, the government also can’t force restoration. Additionally, the high cost of upkeep and property feuds have made the restoration more difficult. However a few Havelis have been restored into museums too like Podar Haveli Museum, and some have been converted to hotels like- Grand Haveli Resort and Koolwal Kothi.
The keys to the abandoned Havelis lie with the caretakers, who may charge anything between INR 100 to 200 to open the gates and guide you inside. Most of these mansions have many rooms and separate sections for men and women- mardana and zenana, reflecting the then prevailing culture of the area.
One of the Havelis we visited was Koolwal Kothi. Mr. Dilip Singh, the caretaker showed us the way around, sharing many anecdotes of the place. Nawalgarh is still inhabited by a few artist communities who paint these frescoes, while a few also practice the art of tie and dye.
Most Havelis exhibit similar architecture. The elaborate entrances and mirror work complemented by cobalt blue, green, and yellow colors offer a distinct look to these abandoned sprawling, bygone walls.
A few other Havelis that you can visit here are
- Aath Haveli
- Morarka Haveli
- Parusrampuria Haveli
- Geevrajka Haveli
- Podar Haveli Museum
- Bhagton Ki Choti Haveli
Recently Bollywood beamed its spotlight on these edifices with movies like PK and Bajrangi Bhaijaan that were shot here. You ask any local about these movies and they’ll have fascinating tales to narrate about the superstars. However, I was more interested in the folklore than the silver screen anecdotes. But one thing that I realized was- Movies in India are like a connecting bond that captivates the entire nation with a mesmerizing charm.
The local markets offer a bevy of handicrafts ranging from bangles to tie and die dupattas, just like other Rajasthani towns. But since it was already Sunday, we were in a hurry to wrap up our tour and we ditched the walk to the market.
I packed my bag and turned back for the last fleeting glance at the city. The dusty roads dotted with grand Havelis tugged at my heart. It was heartening to see the grand edifices crumbling and some great masterpieces breathing its last. I wondered how we could help the cause?
Travel Tips
If you are planning a trip to Shekhawati we suggest you keep these in mind.
- Start early so that you can visit the Havelis at peace
- The sprawling towns of Shekhawati can best be explored on foot
- Pay detailed attention to the paintings to figure interesting stories depicted by them
- Wear comfortable footwear and cotton clothes
- A car to commute from one town to other will come in handy
